Gain Structure

How does one get the loudness correct when there are so many ways to adjust loudness? Gain Structure is the theory behind getting the loudness of the signals in the mixer board to optimal levels at all points. (Gain Structure is also known as Gain Staging.)

Imagine that the sermon is in progress. Only one microphone is being used to pick up the pastor's voice, the ear-set wireless microphone. Also imagine that the sound operator wants to turn up the volume. There are a number of ways to do this. The illustration below shows five different ways to change the pastor's volume. (The pastor's mike is connected to channel 1, the left-most channel on our mixer.)

1.) The line pad push-button (grey, near the top of the board) will change the volume by 20 dB (Louder if you let it up, softer if you press it down.)

2.) The gain trim knob (red, near the top of the board) will change the pastor's volume.

3.) The channel fader (black, slider near the bottom of the board) will change the pastor's volume.

4.) The L-R master faders (the two left-most yellow sliders) will change the pastor's volume

5.) The M master fader (the right-most yellow slider) will change the pastor's volume. (We use the "M" or "Monitor" output to create the mono mix for the sanctuary's loudspeakers.)


Above: The five different blue arrows point to five different ways to change the pastor's volume.



But the five items mentioned above are not the only ways to change the pastor's volume. On the pastor's wireless bodypack there is a gain switch. We usually set it to the middle position. This will also change the pastor's volume.





Above: The gain switch on the pastor's wireless bodypack. (We set it a "0")



In addition, there is the gain control on the power amplifier which will also change the pastor's volume.


Above: Gain control on the power amplifier.


That brings the total to seven different ways to change the pastor's volume. Of course, in routine operation we somehow intuitively just know that the channel fader (black slider) is the item to adjust. We have always done it that way, so it seems obvious. Gain Structure is the explanation for why the adjustment should be done this way in routine operation. More specifically, gain structure explains how to set all the other possible adjustments correctly so that the channel fader (black slider) does what we expect.


Description of gain structure

The signal chain is the sequence of circuits and adjustments that the signal passes through on the way to the loudspeaker, recording, video stream, or any other final destination. At every point along the way of the signal chain the signal must be at an acceptable level, not too strong and not too weak.

• If the signal is too strong, it becomes distorted at that point. No gain adjustment after that point can remove the distortion. Furthermore, no gain adjustment before this point can eliminate the distortion without adding needless noise. There is only one gain adjustment that will correctly mitigate the problem of the signal being too strong at this point.

• If the signal is too weak at some point, it cannot overpower background noise, hiss, buzzes and/or humming sounds that exist at extremely low levels in any electronic circuit. (Even in digital circuits quantization noise becomes an issue.) Once this noise is apparent in the signal, no gain adjustment after this point can eliminate the noise. Furthermore, no gain adjustment before this point can solve the noise problem without adding needless distortion. There is only one gain adjustment that will correctly mitigate the problem of the signal being too weak at this point.

Getting the signal strength within bounds all along the signal chain starts at the very first gain adjustment. In the case of the pastor's mic example above, that is the gain switch on the pastor's bodypack. If that is set too high (e.g. in our case, "mic") then there will be distortion in the radio-signal. No gain adjustment later in the signal chain can remove that distortion. If it is set too low ("–10" in our case) then the signal will be too weak in the radio channel and some hissing and static will be audible in the signal. No gain adjustment later in the signal chain can remove the noise.

That first gain adjustment in the signal chain, wherever it may be, is critical. It matches the source. In this example, the combination of the particular brand and model of the pastor's ear-set microphone and the pastor's style of talking (or shouting or whispering) is matched to the electronics that will follow the gain adjustment. Usually, once this one is somewhat near optimal the rest of the gain adjustments will be about right too just because previous users of the system have set them reasonably. But any gain adjustment that runs the signal level below the noise level or above the distortion level will cause a problem that cannot be corrected well by any other gain control.

The last gain adjustment in the signal chain has a special role. Instead of adapting the signal level to the following electronics, it adapts the signal level to the hearing levels of the people in the room! In the example of the pastor's mic channel, the last gain control in the signal chain is the one on the power amplifier. This is the gain control that establishes the maximum loudness in the sanctuary (or other destination) that can be achieved. If this is too low, no amount of adding gain before it will add enough loudness. Those earlier gain controls will only end up adding distortion. If this final gain control is too high, there will be hiss and noise in the background of the sound. No gain control in the signal chain before the final one will do a good job of reducing that background noise. If this gain control is set correctly there will be enough loudness to bring on feedback in practically any situation (if the faders are pushed up too high for example) and to cause the audience to perceive more than enough loudness, yet the signal will be undistorted during normal operations and when there is supposed to be silence, the system will not be humming or hissing or letting spurious radio signals get through.

Once all the channels are correctly gain trimmed the rest of the board will generally behave well in terms of overall signal levels. The general strategy should be to use the master and group faders (red and yellow sliders) to control the desired overall loudness of the mix and to use the channel faders (black) to get a pleasing balance within the mix. In many cases one can put the group master faders (red) to good creative use in managing the instruments vs. vocal balance and the L-R master faders (two left-most yellow) to control overall loudness. As one is doing this one should be careful not to over-drive or under-drive the internal mixer busses leading into and out of the master section of the mixer board, but as I've mentioned, if the individual channels are all properly gain-trimmed and the final power-amplifier is properly gain trimmed, then everything in-between will tend to stay in-bounds for any reasonable mix.


How to get the gain structure right

Each gain adjustment along the signal chain will have some type of indicator of signal level. In general, if a red light is blinking, the signal is too strong, reduce the associated gain setting. If green lights are never blinking, the gain is too low, increase the associated gain control. One should read the user's manual for the equipment to discover how to deal with yellow indicators. These vary from device-to-device. In general, on analog equipment occasional blinking of yellow is usually considered acceptable but does mean that some inaudible or nearly inaudible distortion has happened.

The rules above apply to all the equipment on our sound desk with two exceptions. 1.) The CD recorder and the Behringer audio interface to the Facebook stream have digital aspects to them. We prefer to avoid yellow signal levels on the mixer board to accommodate these mixes better. 2.) On the very last master fader on the mixer board for any mix, any amount of green including no green is acceptable. These listener buttons will always be labeled "AFL" with an "A" instead of a "P." (But not all AFL buttons represent the final master adjustment so the relaxation of requirements for green does not apply to all AFL buttons, just the last one in the signal chain on the board.)

A side note: Alan & Heath recommends that optimal levels for our mixer ideally should be high enough to make the +6 dB (yellow) LED blink occasionally on the loudest parts of the signal. At Covenant Church we run a little lower than that (keep peaks at 0 dB or less if practical) because some of our equipment is digital, such as the CD recorder and the Behringer computer audio interface for the Facebook stream.

Digital equipment takes various approaches to color-coding signal levels. As usual, green is good, red is bad, but yellow is different. Some digital equipment does not use yellow on the VU meters. This is because the boundary between bad distortion and a practically perfect signal is very narrow on all digital systems. The signal either clips (indicated by red) or is near perfect (indicated by green or any color other than red). For some other digital equipment the yellow lights indicate a desirable level for the loudest portions of the program. In this case the loudest parts of the signal should routinely and frequently cause yellow to be displayed. In still other digital equipment the yellow represents a reserve headroom amount that should not be routinely used. In this case an occasional flash of yellow is OK, but one does not want to see it routinely, not even on the loudest parts of the program. Read the equipment manual(s) to figure out the recommended settings.


Behringer computer audio interface and CD player

Our entire sound system is analog except for the CD recorder and the Behringer computer audio interface that delivers audio for the Facebook stream. On the CD recorder we desire to see the loudest parts of the signal at –12 to –3 dB but not routinely above –3 dB. (The CD recorder has no yellow colors on its meters.) On the Behringer computer audio interface the "peak" LEDs (red) and the gain adjustments on this audio interface are on the analog side and should be adjusted according to the analog rules above, but it is a little difficult because there are no green or yellow LEDs, just one red led on each channel to warn of clipping. The red should never blink, but the gain should be high enough so that they are on the verge of blinking. (If it blinks rarely, leave it alone until a practice session later. It is a touchy adjustment and it is easy to make it worse.) The OBS software that receives the USB audio stream uses the convention that the louder portions of the signal should drive the VU meter into the yellow. Yellow is the goal to achieve, but red is to be avoided.


Shure SLX wireless mic--pastor's mic

In the example of the pastor's microphone, the indicator for the bodypack's gain switch is on the receiver. On the left-hand side of the receiver there is a small LED bar-graph style VU meter. If the green lights on this meter never flash, the gain is too low, switch the gain on the bodypack to a higher setting. If the yellow light on this meter are frequently blinking or if the red light is occasionally blinking, switch to a lower gain setting on the bodypack.


Above: Each gain adjustment has some type of indicator to help set it correctly.


Shure LX wireless mics—handheld wireless mics

Our handheld wireless microphones also have gain trim adjustments in them. The VU meter that responds to the gain trim in the microphone is the "AUDIO" VU meter on the corresponding receiver.


Above: Each gain adjustment has some type of indicator to help set it correctly.


Many wireless receivers have additional gain adjustments on the receiver itself. One can be seen on the front panel of the "LX receiver" shown above, labeled "LEVEL." In our case, Turn this front-panel level control all the way up. Then adjust the corresponding gain trim at the top of the mixer board (red) as usual. Shure provides this front-panel LEVEL control just in case the device the receiver is connected to does not have a gain trim adjustment. The only reason to set the LEVEL control on the front panel of the receiver below maximum is if the next device in the signal chain (typically a mixer) has no gain trim (or equivalent) adjustment.


Electro-acoustic musical instruments

Some electro-acoustic musical instruments have gain controls on them. Musicians may use these for creative control. However if you are having difficulty getting enough signal at the first gain trim of the sound board (see next paragraph), an adjustment on the musical instrument is the likely problem. Most instruments cannot produce such a strong signal that it necessarily overloads a mixer board, but weak signals can be an issue. With this in mind, if possible, ask the musician to turn the gain control on the instrument all the way up, or at least all the way up for the parts that the musician wants to be the loudest. Guitars are not the only electro-acoustic instruments that might have gain controls. Violins, saxophones, and many acoustic instruments equipped with a pickup, can have gain controls.


Above: An Electro-acoustic guitar with gain and tone controls.
Photo source, Mooloolaba Music, fair use.


Electric musical instruments

Most electric musical instruments have several gain controls. Musicians often deliberately cause distortion with these gain controls as a creative effect. Just be sure the signal arriving at the mixer boards is at a normal level. Quite often the electric instrument drives an "amplifier" located on-stage near the performer (really an amplifier plus a loudspeaker) and a microphone is placed in front of the amplifier's loudspeaker to get the signal to the sound system. If this is the case, the gain structure issues are all the normal issues that relate to the type of microphone being used.

Sometimes an electric instrument (electric guitar, electric violin, etc.) is connected to the sound system via a direct input box (DI box). In this case, if the signal at the mixer board is too weak, ask the musician to turn up the last gain control in the chain of controls that they have. If this control is already all the way up, ask them to turn up the next gain control back in the chain, etc. until you have enough signal.

Some musical instruments, especially keyboards, have stereo direct outputs. (Labeled right and left) If you want a monoaural signal, connect to only the left output. If the right output sockets are all empty, it is an industry convention that the left outputs shall be automatically mixed down to mono. As soon as something is plugged into any right output then all the outputs become dedicated to their labeled channels. If you plug into only a right output you get only half the signal, whereas if you plug into only a left output you get the sum of the left and right outputs.


Above: A typical musical instrument back panel with stereo line outputs


Alan & Heath mixer—line pad

Following the signal chain from the pastor's microphone, through the pastor's bodypack and the associated receiver, the signal then enters the Allan & Heath mixer. Once inside the mixer the signal passes through the line pad attenuator which is controlled by a small white pushbutton at the top of the mixer board. If this switch is down, then the signal is attenuated (weakened) by 20 dB. (That's quite a lot.) The general rule is that these buttons should be down (line pad should be in use) unless the gain trim adjustment (discussed next) cannot be done correctly with the button down. The first amplifier in the mixer needs to be very sensitive in order to handle the weakest microphone signals. That means that this first amplifier can clip (distort) rather easily. With the line pad switch the mixer channel can be adapted to any type of signal from the weakest microphone (signals of just a few hundredths of a volt) to headphone-jack level signals from consumer electronics such as a smartphone (a signal of about a volt or two.) and everything in-between.


Alan & Heath mixer—gain trim (red)

After the line pad, the signal goes through the gain trim adjustment, a red knob labeled "GAIN" near the top of the mixer board. This is used to match the signal level closely to the characteristic of the channel's first amplifier. To monitor the signal level at this point, watch the mini-VU meter just above the black fader (slider) for that channel. You want to see as much green as possible but rarely or never yellow and certainly never red. If the line-pad button is down and the gain trim is fully clockwise without getting enough signal to activate two green LEDs on the mini-VU then it is necessary to let the line-pad button up (take the line pad out of the circuit and give up its headroom). Now it will be possible to correctly set the gain trim.

Each channel of the mixer should be checked for gain-trim before each event. This is because vocalists and microphone setups vary. If you presume that last week's settings will be OK, you will probably run into a situation sooner or later where the board is just hard to manage. A hard-to-manage board might be one that seems to want to break out in feedback with every little twiddle or one that just will not produce enough loudness in one or more channels while other channels are blasting through. A well-gain-trimmed board will usually produce a pleasing mix when most faders (black sliders) are between 1/2 and 2/3 of the way up. In this range the faders will have a good feel. That is, moving the faders will produce the expected proportional amounts of change in the sound, not sudden unexpected changes.


Alan & Heath mixer—using the stereo VU meter

There is a stereo VU meter in the master section of the mixer. This meter can be used along with the pre-fade listener (PFL) and after-fader listener (AFL) buttons to monitor signal levels at various points in the mixer board. It has higher resolution than the mini-VU meters built into each channel, so it is well worth learning how to use it. This stereo VU meter works in conjunction with the headphone buss. The headphone jack near the VU meter sends the signal from the VU meter to your ears.




← The signal from the stereo VU meter goes to the headphones.




At covenant Church
Always set 2TRK REPLAY fully counterclockwise.

At Covenant church
Always set 2TRK TO L-R up (green LED extinguished).
   (We never want to hear the recording mix in the L-R mix.)


Stereo VU meter.
← Blinking red is bad. Do something about it.
← Occasionally bouncing into yellow is marginally OK.

← Bouncing up to –3 dB or 0 dB is as good as it gets.
      Between –12 and –3 dB? Meh... weak but maybe let it ride.
← Bouncing up to at least –12 dB should usually be achieved.

← Bouncing below –12 dB? Either it should be quiet or you
   should do something about it.

← Red PFL/AFL LED tells you a PFL or AFL button is down.


← Headphone volume control. Adjust to your personal preference.
   This knob does not change the signal level at any VU meter.

At covenant church
← This white button should always be down.
   (Sets default monitor mix to the recording mix.)

Above: Stereo VU meter and headphone controls in the master section


To use the stereo VU meter and headphones to good advantage, first make sure that all the pre-fader listener (PFL) and after-fader listener (AFL) buttons are up. These PFL and AFL buttons are near every fader and near every master "send" in the master section. On the Alan & Heath GL2400 mixer if a button is round (not square or rectangular) it is a PFL or AFL button. All these round buttons need to be up to start with. All their associated yellow LEDs must be extinguished. Additionally, just below the stereo VU meter in the master section of the mixer board there is a red LED labeled PFL/AFL. This LED must be extinguished also. If it is illuminated, there is a PFL and/or AFL button down and a yellow PFL or AFL indicator still illuminated somewhere.

Now press the single PFL button for the channel you want to gain trim. The yellow LED near the PFL button should light and the red PFL/AFL LED under the main VU meters should light. The stereo VU meter is now monitoring that channel's gain trim, and that channel only. Adjust the gain trim and if necessary, the line-pad switch, for maximum green with no yellow or a rare yellow flicker. While you are doing this, you will be able to hear that channel, and that channel only, in the headphones. Perhaps the headphones are too loud or soft for your taste when the gain trim is adjusted correctly according to the stereo VU meter. The headphone MONITOR knob (red) below the stereo VU meter is just for you. Adjust that to your taste. It has no effect on the signal strength anywhere in the mixer board, except for the amount of signal that is sent from the stereo VU meter to your headphones.

After you have gain-trimmed a channel using the stereo VU meter, let that channel's PFL button up again and observe that the PFL/AFL red LED is extinguished again. The stereo VU meter and the headphones now default to monitoring either the L-R buss or the recording mix (also known as the 2TRK mix), as selected by the small white button just below the headphone MONITOR knob. In our situation the need to monitor the L-R mix in the headphones is rare because the overall sound balance in the sanctuary can be much better evaluated by listening to the room without headphones. Why use technology when there is a more perfect way to monitor that sound? Thus, for all practical purposes the white square button below the headphone MONITOR knob should always be down so that the headphones and the stereo VU meter monitor the recording (2TRK) mix by default.


Alan & Heath—Creating the L-R mix

The L-R master faders (two left-most yellow sliders) are the overall volume controls for every destination. If you raise this above 0 dB the sound will get louder everywhere— in the sanctuary, in the nursery, in the hearing loop, on the Facebook stream, and everywhere. Likewise, if you lower this below 0 dB the sound will get softer everywhere. There is one exception: Sounds in the recording mix that arrived there only via the Aux 5 and 6 sends will not be affected by the L-R master faders. (the L-R master faders have no authority over channels that have all the L-R, 1-2, 3-4 couplers up.)

Once all the channels are properly gain trimmed (red knobs at the top of the mixer board) then most of the rest of the gain structure falls into place much more easily. Furthermore, most mixer boards are designed with extra gain margins on the intermediate points in the mixer board, so even if there is a minor gain structure error in the middle of the chain it will create little or no distortion or hiss or hum. The discussion that follows assumes that each channel is properly gain-trimmed.

At the beginning of any event, set the yellow L and R faders to 0 dB. The nominal setting for any master fader should be 0 dB. For the moment, assume that no groups are being used and the L-R (yellow) faders are at 0 dB. For each channel that has a signal that should be present in the main mix (sent everywhere--sanctuary, fellowship hall, nursery, Facebook stream, recording—everywhere) press down the white "L-R" button near the associated channel fader (black slider). Then push the channel fader (black or blue) up to near the 0 dB line. In the example of the pastor's sermon, there is only one microphone that has a significant amount of signal, the pastor's microphone. For a properly gain-trimmed channel, 0 dB represents a nominal mix, so usually you will find that a pleasing mix will be found with the faders near 0 dB, plus or minus a bit to suit your judgement.

The gain structure challenge now is to be sure the L-R busses have nominal levels of signal on them when the L-R master faders (yellow) are at 0 dB. Above the L fader (left-most yellow slider) you will find an AFL button. Press it down and look at the stereo VU meter. It should be bouncing up to at least –12 and no higher than 0 dB. (Be sure no other PFL or AFL buttons are down. The meter is only accurate when exactly one PFL or AFL is in use.) Good gain structure on the L-R busses will almost automatically happen if the channel gain trims are correct, so it is not urgent to keep monitoring this. But if you suspect a problem, this is one place to check. Check each of the L and the R channels individually and one-at-a-time. If signal levels are too high, pull down about the same amount on all the channel faders (black), and push up if the signal is too low.

You will probably notice that as more and more channels are opened up with significant signals on them, you may need to lower the channel faders (black) to prevent the L-R signal levels from going into the yellow (going above 0 dB). For example, in a praise and worship team situation you might have four vocalists with microphones, a guitar, a piano with two microphones on it, a cello, and a flute, all with mics. Now if each of these are properly gain trimmed and if each channel is coupled to the L-R busses, and if each channel fader is set at 0 dB, there will be more than 0 dB, maybe +6 dB or so on the L-R busses. This happens because of the multiplicity of signals flowing onto those L-R busses. Just like a river with many tributaries gets wide, the L-R busses with many signals flowing into them can get overloaded. But if you just pull back all the channel faders (black) to a little below 0 dB, the sum of all their signals will end up being close to 0 dB on the L-R busses. Fortunately, our Alan & Heath mixer has lots of headroom (+16 dB according to the user's manual), so gain structure errors do not become very noticeable on these mix busses, and it is OK to run the L-R busses with yellow VU levels (up to about +6 dB). But for the very best results try to run te channel faders a little below 0 dB if many faders are up, thus keeping the L-R bus in the green, near or just under 0 dB.


Alan & Heath—Creating group mixes.

If you elect to use groups, Let the channel L-R coupler up and put the 1-2 or 3-4 button down. Now that channel is coupled to either the 1-2 stereo group or the 3-4 stereo group. Usually only one (or zero) of these three coupler buttons should be down for each channel. (In our context, pressing two or more of these on one channel will probably create complications in balancing out the mix.) The group busses can be checked for proper signal levels just like the L-R busses. Press down one of the AFL buttons above a group fader (red slider) to check that signal. Similarly, if corrective action is needed, all the channel faders coupled to that group need to be adjusted in unison.

On Covenant Church's mixer, the group faders (red) are set up in stereo pairs to send their signals to the L-R mix. Groups 1 and 3 send signals to L. Likewise, groups 2 and 4 send signals to R. This is controlled by a set of four pan-pots (brown) and switches (white pushbuttons) located above the group faders (red) in the master section of the mixer. Normally we find no need to change these pan-pots and switches. Group pan-pots 1 and 3 should be full counter-clockwise and group pan-pots 2 and 4 should be full clockwise. (Pan-pots are color-coded brown on our mixer.) The four white square "GRPx TO L-R" buttons located near each group pan-pot should be down.


Alan & Heath—master outputs.

Sanctuary mix master
After the main mix is created on the L-R busses we route that to various places using outputs from the master (middle) section of the mixer board. The Sanctuary mix is derived by mixing the L-R busses equally into one monaural mix. This output is controlled by the "M" fader (yellow) in the master section. Normally this should be set at 0 dB, but if you want to make it louder or softer in the sanctuary, this is the overall "program volume control" for that purpose. Why might you want to do this? Maybe the sound system is being used for an event that is happening exclusively in the fellowship hall. Then by sliding this "M" fader all the way down the hollow echoey distant sound of the sanctuary speakers will not bleed into the fellowship hall. You can monitor this gain structure of this output using the AFL button just above the "M" fader.

Fellowship hall mix master
Another master output is from the bottom of the "matrix" section in the top left area of the mixer. The fellowship hall mix has the L-R busses and some of the AUX 5 augmentation of the recording mix added into it via the "EXT IN" (grey) knobs at the top of the matrix area of of the master section. The AUX 5-6 augmentation is added to support congregational singing for those seated in the fellowship hall. This mix is also delayed about 65 ms via processing in the power amplifier for this channel. This delay puts the sound in time-synchronization with sound arriving in the fellowship hall from the main speakers located over the pulpit area. The "MTX1" fader (red knob) is the master gain for this output. Normally we set this at
0 dB (3 o'clock), but if you want to adjust the loudness in the fellowship hall only, this is the "program volume level" knob for that.

Basement mix master
Another master output is from the bottom of the "matrix" section in the top left area of the mixer. This mix is similar to the fellowship hall mix (L-R + AUX 6) although it can be independently adjusted for even more support of congregational singing since the basement areas will have no acoustic sound from the sanctuary in them. We have speakers in the nursery, the basement hallway area outside the nursery, and the youth room. The "MTX2" master is the "program volume level" knob for these speakers. Normally we set this at 0 dB (3 o'clock). Each of the loudspeakers in the basement has an independent volume control on them as the final program volume level adjustment. Anybody listening via these basement speakers is allowed to adjust the volume controls on the loudspeakers so that the volume suits their taste.

Stereo recording mix masters
Finally, in the master matrix section, "MTX3" (left) and "MTX4" (right) provide a stereo output for the Facebook stream, the CD recorder, and the hearing loop system. The stereo recording mix is composed of the L-R stereo signal plus the AUX 5-6 stereo signal which gets added in via the EXT IN (grey) sends a the top of the matrix section. The "MTX3" or "MTX4" master outputs can be checked for gain structure by pressing an AFL button near the "MTX3" or "MTX4" master knobs (red). Then the stereo VU meter will show the level at this output and the headphones will allow you to listen to this signal. Normally we set these "MTX3" and "MTX4" masters at 0 dB (3 o'clock).

This stereo recording mix from MTX 3-4 outputs of the matrix goes to the RANE (brand) distribution amplifier where there are a number of additional gain settings and outputs. The RANE distribution amplifier is set up such that if you send it properly gain structured recording mix, all the signals within the RANE unit will also be properly gain structured as well as all the signals delivered from that unit to other devices such as the Facebook stream, the hearing loop, and the 2-TRK monitor in the Alan & Heath mixer, the CD recorder, and any other outputs that may be connected to the RANE distribution amplifier. One stereo output from the RANE distribution amplifier, containing the final stereo recording mix, is routed back to the Alan & Heath mixer via the "2TRK" input to the mixer. This allows the final recording mix to be the default monitoring heard in the headphones and it also allows the Alan & Heath's stereo VU meter to monitor the final gain structure of the stereo recording mix at the outputs of the RANE distribution amplifier.

If any of these master outputs are showing signals that are too strong or two weak it is quite unlikely that these masters are the best places to make the adjustment. The most likely culprits are channel gain trims that have not been carefully set and/or inappropriate levels on the L-R busses due to a mix that is overall to strong or too weak (Too many black faders too high or too low with a half-dozen or more channels in the mix).


A bit off-topic: Gain structure of the recording mix

For a variety of reasons, if all channels have been properly gain-trimmed and a reasonable mix is in progress, the VU levels of the recording mix (2TRK) will take care of themselves and land in –3 to –12 dB range rather naturally. Thus, monitoring the VU levels of the recording mix is not a priority. However, listening in the headphones to the recording mix is a good thing to do periodically to assure that the recording mix is well-balanced. The recording mix normally will track the sanctuary mix, but the AUX 5 and AUX 6 sends are used to add additional signal to the L-R mix, thus creating the recording mix. This is necessary for two reasons: 1.) In the sanctuary the musical portions of a worship service are usually significantly louder than the spoken-word portions. But at home, listening on the Facebook stream, this loudness variation would be obnoxious. In the recording mix we need to elevate the loudness of the spoken-word portion of the worship service to match the loudness of the music. Also, 2.) in the sanctuary there are such things as congregational responses. Normally that is singing and responsive reading, but these sounds also includes reactions such as laughter if the pastor makes use of humor, and just the general sound of the room. Also, some musical instruments are not mixed into the L-R mix because they have enough acoustic energy to not need reinforcement. The organ, piano, and drums would be typical examples. These aspects of the sound in the sanctuary need to be added to the recording mix to make it sound natural. The AUX 5 and AUX 6 busses are used to augment the L-R mix and thus create the recording mix. Normally the AUX 5 and AUX 6 sends (Yellow knobs that are above brown knobs) should be off (fully counterclockwise--no augmentation of that channel in the recording mix). There are two exceptions.

Exception 1.) Spoken word, AUX 5 & AUX 6 each to 2 o'clock
If a channel has a spoken-word signal on it, then turn each of those AUX 5 and AUX 6 sends to the 2 o'clock position to couple an extra amount of that signal into the recording mix. This is done to bring the spoken-word part of the worship service to the same overall loudness as the musical parts of the service. Musical vocal parts and instruments like guitars that are being amplified should not have extra signal coupled into the recording mix. They are going to be plenty loud in the recording mix because they will be strongly present in the L-R mix. Only spoken-word parts get augmented. Sometimes praise and worship leaders have spoken-word parts. Ideally, these channels should be augmented when there is speech and not augmented when there is singing. But this back-and-forth adjustment of AUX 5-6 senders is too much workload so usually they do not get augmented. If at all possible, have the praise-team leaders walk to a different mic such as the podium mic for spoken word parts of the worship service.

Exception 2.) Miking of a musical source for the recording only
It is also possible to couple a signal only into the recording mix. We usually do this with the organ, piano, choir, and the ambience channels. (Channels 23 and 24 are the ambience channels, other mics may be used in other channels as needed.) For channels contributing only to the recording mix, leave the L-R, 1-2, and 3-4 buss coupler buttons near the associated faders up. Those signals now cannot get into the L-R main mix nor will they be reproduced in the sanctuary loudspeakers. But by adding an extra amount of them to the recording mix via the AUX 5 and AUX 6 sends (yellow knobs) these signals can still be mixed into the recording mix. To add from one channel in mono to the recording mix, turn AUX 5 and AUX 6 each to 2 o'clock on that channel. Very often we use two microphones for these types of signals and mix them in stereo. To add from a stereo pair of channels into the recording mix turn the channel that will be the "left" channel's AUX 5 fader to 3 o'clock and leave the AUX 6 fader off. For the channel that will be the "right" channel, turn the AUX 5 fader off and the AUX 6 fader to 3 o'clock. The AUX 5-6 busses are set up "post fader" so the normal (black) channel faders have authority over AUX 5-6 in their channels even though the L-R, 1-2, and 3-4 couplers are all up. (Normally the black slider-faders have no authority over AUX sends.) Thus, after setting up the AUX 5-6 sends, just use the main black faders in the ordinary way from that point onward to blend these sounds into the recording mix.


Power amplifier gain controls

Each power amplifier has its own gain control. These are set to provide the desired overall maximum loudness achievable at the loudspeakers (or other loads) that the power amplifier drives. Sometimes VU meters are provided to show the power output levels that are transpiring. Whereas maximum green with no red showing on a VU meter is the usual goal, this is not the goal on a power amplifier. Red is still to be avoided, but any amount of green, including no green, is acceptable for a power amplifier. At this point there is no need to overcome electronic noise. Speaker inputs are not susceptible to radio signals and other interference so the drive to the loudspeaker can be whatever sounds good without overloading the amplifier (without driving the amplifier's VU meter into the red) and without overloading the loudspeakers. At Covenant Church we have four channels of power amplification. (This discussion ignores the monitor channels. That's another topic for another day.)

[Side note: There is a different strategy that can be used for setting the gain structure of a power amplifier. This one is arguably the more professional choice, and is typically what is done in large venues, such as a rock concert with over 1000 people attending. But but practically, the professional technique can result in ear-splitting unpleasant loud howls and buzzes and even speaker blow-outs when things go wrong such as uncontrolled feedback or a guitar plug that is half-way inserted. That is why we do not use this strategy at Covenant Church. The "professional" strategy is to send some test program material out of the mixer board and into the power amplifier and use the mixer's main VU meter to set that AFL output level to bounce up to 0 dB at the peaks, possibly with a little yellow flicker at times. Then use a portable meter (e.g. a DMM) to monitor the output voltage level of the amplifier and increase the gain control on the amplifier until the power level sent to the loudspeaker matches the loudspeaker's power specification. This allows the speaker to be driven to its full rating at will by the sound-board operator. That level might be even 130 dB SPL—because large amplifiers and speakers can do this! That level is literally painful if hearing protection is not used. This also requires engineering calculations to determine the correct voltage level in this amplifier's context relative to the power specification of the loudspeaker. Then in normal use the mixer's master output fader for this amplifier is typically operated somewhat below 0 dB, say at -10 or -20 dB, unless really loud sounds are wanted. (The amplifier's power output specification must be sized appropriately relative to the loudspeaker for this technique to work well. Typically the amplifier will be rated at about twice the power of the loudspeaker and not more than five times the rating of the power amplifier.)]

Any power amplifier's input level can be monitored at the Alan & Heath's stereo VU meter via the AFL button on the mixer board for that signal's master fader. Remember, any amount of green including no green is acceptable. We just don't want to see any red. If the signal is bouncing into the red, that is a gain structure error and needs to be fixed at that master fader (turn it down) or perhaps in the signal chain leading up to that master fader. If the signal at this point is nearly bouncing into the red and it still is not loud enough in the room, that is also a gain structure error. This type of error needs to be fixed via the gain controls on the power amplifier for that signal.

Crown CDi1000 power amplifier—Sanctuary
This amplifier is located in the rack below the sound desk. It actually contains two channels. This paragraph is about the channel that drives the sanctuary speakers. The signal arriving at the input of this amplifier will have its peaks typically bouncing up to about –12 dB or as much as 0 dB on the very loudest sounds, assuming proper gain structure all the way back through the mixer board to the source. (The input level to the power amplifier is the AFL level from the "M" (yellow) fader on the mixer board.) The front-panel gain control here should be adjusted when a loud event is in progress, the loudest sounds ever desired from the sanctuary speakers. Adjust this knob to produce the desired loudness in the room, or a bit more for some margin. That's it. As long as red clipping indicators are not blinking (and assuming the speakers can take the power) everything is good, regardless of where the VU meter on the face of the power amplifier is bouncing, so long as it is not bouncing into the red. In our sanctuary this knob is taped down at about 10 or 11 o'clock because it NEVER needs to be adjusted. If you want louder or softer sound in the sanctuary (only modifying the loudness in the sanctuary), use the yellow "M" fader on the mixer board for that. Normally, set the "M" fader (yellow) to 0 dB. Only adjust if that is not producing the right loudness. If that is not enough, push up the L-R faders too, but seriously, if pushing up the "M" (yellow) fader all the way is not enough, check for a gain structure error earlier in the signal chain first.

Some power amplifiers, including our Crown power amplifier, have other ways of controlling maximum loudness. Our amplifier is set up with a maximum power output limit of about 60 watts. (Our sanctuary is very lively-sounding. We do not need much audio power to make the sound objectionably loud—60 watts is plenty.) This is to protect the loudspeakers in case of a prolonged burst of feedback howl, or a loud buzz such as can happen if a guitar's signal-cord comes about half-way out of its socket. There are also fuses inline with the speaker wires at the back of the Crown power amplifier to provide yet one more layer of protection in case for some reason the Crown amplifier might boot up in some configuration without the 60 W power limit. Limits like this can save on heartache later!

Crown CDi1000 power amplifier—Fellowship Hall
This is the same amplifier box that drives the sanctuary. The other gain control sets the maximum achievable loudness in the fellowship hall. Everything in the paragraphs above about driving the sanctuary speakers applies here except that if you want to adjust the volume level in the fellowship hall, use the MTX1 master fader (red knob, near the bottom of the matrix section in the master area of the Alan & Heath mixer). Once again, this fellowship master fader should be set at 0 dB (3 o'clock) normally and you should only adjust that if it is not producing the volume level you want.

Bogen CT100B power amplifier—Basement Loudspeakers
This amplifier drives several speakers in the basement including the nursery and the youth room. Each of these speakers in the basement has its own volume control, a passive rheostat. (Most of these rheostats are burned up and difficult to set. This happened on account of turning this power amplifier up too high in the past.) This power amplifier is really an "integrated amplifier" that we are using only for its power amplifier (and equalizer). This "integrated" amplifier has its own mixer, which must be properly gain trimmed as any mixer would be. After that there is a master volume control. With all the basement speaker rheostats set to full volume, this master volume control should be set to provide the loudest desired sound in the rooms in the basement. Then the loudness of each speaker in the basement can be adjusted to suit the taste of those nearby by turning down the rheostats.

Bogen GTS100 power amplifier—Hearing Loop
This amplifier drives a hearing-loop antenna that is embedded in the ceiling of the basement and drives a signal up into the sanctuary (and down into the basement for that matter). This hearing loop signal can be directly received by hearing aids that are equipped with a telecoil. The signal levels in this system should conform to international standards. To achieve that a VU meter (actually a salvaged meter re-purposed) has been set on top of this amplifier to monitor the hearing loop signal. When the meter is bouncing up to half-scale the signal is at the ideal standard level. It is acceptable for the meter to bounce up just a fifth of the way or all the way. Hearing aids will be able to adapt to this much change of signal level. It is best to let the hearing aids do that adaption rather than take your time to fuss with this. However if the hearing loop signal is routinely pegging the meter at the maximum, turn the master fader on this amplifier down a bit. Likewise, if the meter is not making it at least a fifth of the way up-scale on normal programming, turn the master up a bit. If you make adjustments, make the minimum adjustment needed to get the signal between 1/5 and all the way without pegging it. Do not work hard to make it bounce up just half-way because probably the programming will change (the song will end or the prayer will end) and then a large adjustment will be seen to have been too much overall.

In pre-pandemic days perhaps a half-dozen to a dozen people used the hearing loop each Sunday. For a few of these people this is the difference between understanding almost every word spoken and missing over half of the words spoken. Probably even people with normal hearing would find that listening to the spoken word via the hearing loop would be more pleasing and relaxing and hi-fidelity sounding than listening to the loudspeakers in the sanctuary. You also might have noticed that the equalizer on the hearing loop amplifier is set to some very extreme settings. This is to compensate for the inductance that is typical of a hearing loop transmitting antenna. It does not have a flat frequency response, so we make up for that with the equalizer on this amplifier.

A final remark on power amplifiers
You may have noticed that all of our power amplifiers are over-powered for our needs. This is typical in any installation. Due to sales, marketing, availability, and other issues, oversized power amplifiers happen. Our sanctuary for example, can be driven loud enough for our needs by a 60 W amplifier. But to require that the amplifier be exactly 60 W would needlessly narrow the available choices and thus raise the cost of purchasing an amplifier. It might happen that a 250 W per channel amplifier such as the Crown CDi1000 is on sale and represents the best bargain. It is perfectly fine to have a (moderately) oversized amplifier but an undersized amplifier will always be a problem. If there is at least enough power from each amplifier, then each amplifier's gain control can be used to match the amplifier's output to what is really needed.

This ends the discussion of gain structure. If you have questions or comments, you may address them to the author of these pages, Douglas(dot)DeBoer(at)Dordt(dot)edu.

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